When To Apply Retinol In Skin Care Routine

Retinol is one of the most effective ingredients in skincare, known for its ability to smooth fine lines, improve skin texture, and enhance overall radiance. However, proper application is essential to achieving these benefits without irritation. When used correctly, retinol can significantly improve skin health and appearance, but improper use can lead to dryness and sensitivity. So, our expert aestheticians are breaking it down step by step  - where retinol fits into your skincare routine, how to layer it properly, and how to keep your skin happy in the process!

Here’s how to properly layer your Retinol in your skincare routine:

Step 1: Cleanser

Your skincare routine always starts with a great cleanser. Whether you’re dealing with dirt, oil, makeup, or environmental pollutants, cleansing prepares your skin to absorb the active ingredients that follow.

- Morning: A gentle, hydrating cleanser works best to refresh your skin without stripping it. We love this one for keeping skin balanced and hydrated - it’s also great to use after any skin treatment like microneedling, Moxi, or BBL. 

- Evening: At night, opt for a cleanser that effectively removes makeup and SPF while supporting your skin barrier. Gentle Wash is a great option for all skin types, especially for acne-prone or anti-aging regimens

Step 2: Toner

Toner is often an overlooked step, but it plays a crucial role in optimizing your skincare routine. After cleansing, your skin’s pH can become slightly imbalanced, and any residual impurities or cleanser left on the skin can interfere with the absorption of your next skincare products. A well-formulated toner helps restore your skin’s natural pH, refines pores, and enhances the effectiveness of serums and moisturizers by allowing them to penetrate more deeply. 

Aesthetician tip: Not all toners are created equal. Traditional astringent toners often contain alcohols that can be drying, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin. Instead, opt for an alcohol-free, hydrating toner that soothes while prepping your skin. 

Step 3: Serums

Serums are powerhouse products packed with concentrated active ingredients that address specific skin concerns.

- Morning: Antioxidant-rich serums, like a vitamin C serum, help protect against environmental damage. Apply a few drops to provide protection against free radicals while boosting your glow all day.

- Evening: Hydrating and repairing serums, like a hyaluronic acid serum, help plump and nourish the skin overnight. 

Step 4: Retinol

This is where the magic happens! Retinol is best applied in the evening because it increases skin cell turnover and can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

-Nighttime Application Only: After cleansing and applying any lightweight serums, it’s time for your retinol. Our medical-grade retinol is designed to deliver all the benefits of retinol while minimizing irritation.

- How Often? Start by applying retinol 2-3 nights a week to let your skin adjust. As your tolerance builds, you can increase to every other night or nightly use.

- Application Tip: Use a pea-sized amount and apply it evenly over your face, avoiding the delicate eye and lip areas. Follow with a moisturizer to lock in hydration and reduce any potential dryness.

Step 5: Eye Cream

The skin around your eyes is thinner, more delicate, and more prone to showing signs of aging than the rest of your face. Because this area has fewer oil glands, it tends to dry out more quickly, leading to fine lines, puffiness, and dark circles over time. Using a dedicated eye cream helps protect and nourish this fragile skin while addressing specific concerns like hydration, firmness, and brightness.

Unlike regular face moisturizers, eye creams are formulated with lighter textures and targeted active ingredients to work on concerns unique to the eye area. A good eye cream (like this one) hydrates deeply without being too heavy, preventing milia (tiny white bumps caused by clogged pores) while keeping the skin smooth and supple.

Step 6: Moisturizer

A moisturizer is a non-negotiable step in any skincare routine, but when using retinol, it becomes even more essential. Retinol increases cell turnover, which can temporarily weaken the skin barrier, leading to dryness, flaking, or sensitivity. A good moisturizer helps counteract these effects by restoring hydration, reinforcing the skin’s protective barrier, and preventing irritation.

During the day, you want a lightweight, sheer moisturizer that provides hydration without feeling heavy or greasy under SPF and makeup. A richer, cream-based formula is best at night, as it deeply hydrates and helps replenish what your skin loses during the day. 

Step 7: SPF (Morning Only) 

Since retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, applying SPF every morning is non-negotiable.

- Daily Use: We love this one because it provides broad-spectrum protection while keeping skin hydrated and free from irritation.

A Few Aesthetician Approved Tips For Using Retinol:

-Be Patient: Retinol takes time to show results. Stick with it for at least 8-12 weeks to see significant improvements.

- Listen to Your Skin: If you experience dryness, redness, or peeling, scale back your usage to every other night or mix it with your moisturizer.

-Avoid Mixing with Harsh Actives: Don’t use retinol on the same night as strong exfoliants like glycolic acid to prevent irritation.

-Hydrate & Nourish: Keeping your skin barrier strong with hydrating serums and ceramide-rich moisturizers will help minimize any side effects.

By following these steps and using medical-grade products like those from Defy Aesthetic, you can maximize the benefits of retinol while keeping your skin healthy, hydrated, and radiant. If you have any questions or need guidance on your skincare routine, feel free to reach out - we’re here to help you achieve your best skin yet!

Whether you're interested in filler, Botox/Dysport, collagen-boosting skin treatments, or want to learn more about our Defy Annual Membership (a perfect choice for those who want to transform their skin without the price tag over the course of a year!), we’d love to see you in our Bethesda medical spa soon.

Cathryn Speck